Investigation And Development Ofsustainable Garment Pattern Making And Fabrication

Document Type : Primary Research paper

Author

Department of Fashion Technology PSG College of Technology Coimbatore – 641 004 India

Abstract

Sustainable garment design is a way of creating garments where waste is designed
out of a garment from the very beginning of the process. Zero-waste design patterns often
include clever fabric manipulations and cutting layouts. The amount of fabric utilization is
determined by knowing the cutting efficiency. Conceptual idea leads to the devolopment of
fashion design which uses the full width of the fabric. Using specific fabric width for each
garment in pattern making and using aesthetic dimension contributes for zero waste
pattern cutting. Balancing tailored and square cut or rectangular cut pattern cutting
approaches can facilitate later fabric waste elimination.For any style of garment, all the
cut panels of one garment should be placed within the specified length and width of
rectangular piece of fabric.The length and width of fabric can be determined from the
style, measurement, specsheet of the garment.The circumference, which has the highest
measurement compared to others can be used as the width of rectangular piece. Length is
determined from the full length of the garment.A new method is devoloped from the
inspiration of all the researches and techniques used by experts to achieve zero-waste.
The main aim of this research work is to achieve sustainable zero-waste garment
with maximum efficiency. Totally twenty five styles of garments have been achieved,
namely men’s formal shirt and suitings, women’s formal shirt and suitings, women’s
kurthi, men’s polo t-shirt, men’s round neck t-shirt, ladies top with frill, Lodies top with
mandarin collar, Butterfly top, leggings, night pant, tight fitted capris, loose fitted capris,
treggings, tank top, ladies top hooded cardigan, sleeveless hooded cardigan, turtle neck
sweater, denim ¾ th pant for women, denim full length trouser for men, denim ¾th pant
for men, kid’s ¾ th pant, kid’s denim full length trouser, kid’s denim shirt. Design
alteration has been done for back bodice by dividing it into three parts, pattern
arrangement is done in the way how the pattern pieces are attached. Efficiency calculation
and fit checking is done for all the devoloped garments. These sustainable garments are
compared with existing garments in various aspects to show the improvements achieved by
the proposed method and to determine how far it is suitable for industry. Comparing with
the industrial efficiencies, the efficiency achieved in the proposed method is 13% (average)
increased for all products in commercial market. Based on the result, it is found that the
proposed method of garment construction reduces the landfill and the waste generation is
minimized during the garment manufacturing process.